We sell mated and laying Indiana Italian hybrid queens
When you need a queen with proven performance, I've got the queen for you. Each queen I produce is from hand selected queen-side genetic and raised in full 5 frame nuc, being fed only honey from our apiary and never syrup or sugar waters. Once they begin laying, I inspect the pattern and if it is excellent, then she is ready to serve your colony.
Be Aware: My queens are NOT banked. They are removed from the colony the day of pick up. If you call and order but don't show, or call day of pick up and cancel, I will not accept business from you again. When you cancel, I have to re-introduce the queen to the colony which takes several day and uses resources at my expense. Please be sure you need a queen before calling to ask if I have queens available. 99.9% of the time I have them available during the season. If you don't know if you have a queen, I have an "Introducing a queen to your colony" pamphlet below that may help you determine the status of your colony.
If you are trying to decide Nuc's or Packages? Read this
Our Nuc's are 5 deep frames of bees and 5 frames of drawn comb. Others people sell 3 &4 frame nuc's with "blank frames to expand" and call them 5 frame nucs. Don't get weaseled out of one or two frames of important resources. Buy a full 5 frame nuc from us. Your colony needs those resources to thrive and produce honey for you.
Our Nuc's have a fresh, mated, and laying queen that is established in your new colony.
So, comparing Nuc's to package bees: When you buy packaged bees, you run the risk of a colony not accepting the queen or her being neglected in transport. If that happens, you end up spending time and money finding and introducing a new queen. In the end, it costs you more money and you get less honey. Package bees can work out ok, but there are certainly great benefits from buying nuc's.
We mostly use Jester EZ nucs because they are durable, bees can't chew through them, more ventilation than cardboard, 3/4" space above and below the frames, handholds for easy carrying, and easy to open/close top.
Quantities are limited, lock in your Nuc's today.
Pick-up location: click on Google Maps link on our home page for route.
1984 W. State Road 10
Lake Village, IN, 46349
First, we run an active apiary so there are bees flying around. You must sign a liability waiver to enter our facility and to receive bees from me. Bring and wear protective clothing. It's likely there will only be a few flying here and there, but for those who have allergic reactions, it's comforting to know what to expect and prepare for it. No one will "judge" you. Heck, I might even suite up for convenience. Your nucs should be free of straggler bees, but be sure before you put them in the car with you so there are no surprises. The nucs will be closed and sealed shut except for the normal ventilation holes.
Bees can and do get very hot in nuc boxes so don't leave them in the sun closed up. Even the most gentle colony can get angry when they get too hot. They are live animals and must be handled with care.
Nuc's are so easy to handle compared to packages. If you are using langstroth 8 or 10 frame hive, put these 5 frames in the middle of the box in the same order you took them out. It will keep the queens brood nest together. Next, install your other frames in the outside slots. Leave the nuc box near the entrance of the hive for a few hours so the stragglers can find their new home, and viola!!!, your new colony is ready to go!!!
In the following days you will see them taking orientation flights by hovering around the hive, then doing loops and figure 8's in the sky above. Soon they will start bringing in pollen and nectar.
If you have any questions, we will have a demonstration hive there to show you!
Most old timers agree that a nuc with an established queen on drawn comb will perform better than a package, and here is why. A nucleus colony is exactly that......the core essentials of a full hive. It has all of the functional needs of a hive, but in a smaller quantity. What's not to like about that? Nuc's are awesome! A package only contains adult bees of varying ages. When the package maker shakes the bees, it happens at different times of day and different ages of bees with different hive jobs are present when it happens. So, you may end up with older bees, younger bees, or a mix. Older bees aren't good wax producers, younger bees aren't good foragers, and with too many older bees dying off, the population will always dwindle before the queen starts laying and it has the chance to build up again. If it's on bare foundation, it take a long time for them to draw the wax, queen to lay, and brood to hatch. Sometimes a package doesn't accept that queen and they kill her, so you've got to find another which will cost you more. Your package might have been shaken from a laying worker hive and it may not accept a queen.
These are all good reasons to choose a nuc over a package most of the time. A proper nuc like our will have an established & laying queen with brood in all stages of life. It will have valuable food and resources on drawn frames. Drawn frames add value at about $5-8 per frame, plus the honey, wax,and pollen on the frames. You get more honey production quicker because they don't have to consume it to draw the wax.
If you have questions, IHB is here to help you any way we can. Additionally, we can also point you to other great resources in the area, like www.illianaBeekeeperAlliance.com to learn more about beekeeping, find a mentor, and meet other beekeepers in the Northwest Indiana and Northeast Illinois area.
Northwest Indiana Beekeepers Association meets the first Saturday of the month at various locations.
Newton County Beekeepers meets the first Wednesday of the month in Kentland, IN.
Will County Beekeepers Association meets
Conveniently located between I-65 and U.S. 41 on State Road 10. Primarily serving North & Central Indiana plus Northeast Illinois
If there is no open egg, larva, or capped brood, you've probably been without a queen for a long time and need to get a mated queen introduced immediately.
Stress, poor health, lack of open cells to lay in, along with unknown failing queen issues contribute to these events. If your population is dwindling when there are cells to lay eggs in, it may be time to consider requeening before the population gets critical.
Open the hive and place the queen cage on top of the frames and watch them for a few minutes. If they are trying to sting her or act aggressive, DO NOT LEAVE HER IN THE HIVE. If they are calm and curious, crawling over the cage poking around, then it's very likely they will accept her. Go ahead and pull off the cap for the candy release side and put her between 2 frames in the center of the brood box. This allows them to get acquainted before she is released by the workers as they eat through the candy gate. Check back in 3 days to see if they have released her. Chances are they have and your colony is back on track again.
If your colony starts buzzing and acting angry when you introduce a new queen, you probably have a queen already in the hive. You need to locate it or be 100% sure there aren't two queens because one will kill the other.
To keep your hives strong and productive year after year, requeen every year. The first year of life is the most productive for a queen and after that, her performance tapers off. Consider splitting the old queen off to a nuc colony and moving it a good distance away. Leave your main hive queenless for 1-3 days so they realize they are queenless and are more accepting of the new queen you are going to introduce. After that 3-5 days, introduce the new queen in her queen cage and follow the other suggestions on this page. Open the candy gate, let the workers chew their way into her space to release her......and now you've got a healthy new queen that will get to work laying eggs and building your colony! Don't forget to check your hive for emergency queen cells and remove or destroy them.
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